Cube base

The cube. We encourage you to make something cooler than we did for your LED cube! For the template, we only drilled a couple of mm into the wood. To transform the template into a base, we just drilled all the holes through the board. Then we drilled 8 smaller holes for the 8 cathode wires running up to the 8 cathode layers. Of course, you don't want to have your LED cube on a wood colored base. We didn't have any black paint lying around, but we did find a giant black magic marker! Staining the wood black with a magic marker worked surprisingly well! I think the one we used had a 10mm point. Step 27: Build the Cube: Mount the Cube Mount the cube. That sounds very easy, but it's not. You have to align 64 LED legs to slide through 64 holes at the same time. It's like threading a needle, times 64. We found it easiest to start with one end, then gradually popping the legs into place. Use a pen or something to poke at the LED legs that miss their holes. Once all 64 LED legs are poking through the base, carefully turn it on it's side. Then bend all 64 legs 90 degrees. This is enough to hold the cube firmly mounted to the base. No need for glue or anything else. Step 28: Build the Cube: Cathode Risers You now have a LED cube with 64 anode connections on the underside of the base. But you need to connect the ground layers too. Remember those 8 small holes you drilled in a previous step? We are going to use them now. Make some straight wire using the method explained in a previous step. We start with ground for layer 0. Take

Hi @g-andresen ,took a bit long...sorry...What i want is that the cylinder fits into the base cube with a tolerance of e.g. 0.1mm..What i am doing is:1. Create a body => base cube:2. Create a second body => cylinder in another construction and then "insert into current design" of the cube:3. finish to position it and use "Combine" with operation "cut":4. Now it looks like this, after not showing the tool body (cylinder):5. Then i try to offset "the walls" with "offset face" e.g. by -0.1mm=> Then the cylinder will perfectly fit into the base...here it works...But problem is when the shape of the combining cut is a bit more complex i get this error message when i try to offset the "walls" (faces):...so my question is, is there another method to do this with a relative complex shape for:Having two bodies=> target body and tool body=> cut them WITH TOLERANCE OF e.g 0.1mm to get a "fitting"...Thank you for your helpTorsten

ESTNN recaps everything that unfolded in the Fortnite Chapter 2 Finale.Fortnite Chapter 2 is over and done with following the send-off event known as “The End.” Epic Games’ latest cinematic season conclusion had everything fans could hope to see. The event confirmed that Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson is in fact part of Fortnite’s world, and has been from the very beginning. Additionally, Fortnite Battle Royale as we know it has changed forever.Today, ESTNN recaps all the events that unfolded during “The End” as we look ahead to the next Fortnite Chapter 3. Keep in mind, this article contains spoilers. So, if you haven’t watched the event, head over to Fortnite’s YouTube account and experience it for yourself.Contents1 Players Load in and Await the Cube Queen’s Wrath2 The Cube Queen Awakens3 The Underground IO Base with Slone & Jonesy4 The Foundation Saves the Day5 Phase Two6 Fortnite Flipped7 Fortnite Chapter 3 Early Information — Presumed Spider-Man Collaboration & #FortniteFlippedPlayers Load in and Await the Cube Queen’s WrathThe event opened with players spawning next to the Blue Cube and had to wait an extra 30 minutes to see what Epic Games had in store. During the wait time, players were given weapons to eliminate Cube Monsters as they breached the Cube’s outer shell. The timer soon ticked down to zero and the Cube Queen unleashed chaos.The Cube Queen AwakensThe Cube Queen woke up from her slumber above The Pyramid, shouting, “The Last Reality is at hand.” She drew power from the Cubes beneath The Pyramid and seemingly opened up a portal to another world overhead. UFOs began flying into the atmosphere before the Cube Queen opened the portal further, unveiling massive flying saucers in the sky. Eventually, the Blue Cube’s protective layers shattered, allowing enemy forces to march forward.Caretakers began flooding the immediate area, and players had to fight back with an Epic Assault Rifle and Magnum until the flying saucers confiscated them. “There’s no escaping The Last Reality,” spoke The Cube Queen as players retreated to the Blue Cube until a powerful beam shattered it completely.The Underground IO Base with Slone

It looks like some of the LEDs are sagging a little bit, slide in a 9V battery to lift them up! When you have soldered all the columns, it is time to test the LEDs again. Remember that tab sticking out from the upper right corner of the layer, that we told you not to remove yet? Now it's time to use it. Take a piece of wire and solder the tab of the bottom layer to the tab of the layer you just soldered in place. Connect ground to the the ground tab. Test each led using the same setup as you used when testing the individual layers. Since the ground layers have been connected by the test tabs, and all the anodes in each columns are connected together, all LEDs in a column should light up when you apply voltage to the top one. If the LEDs below it does not light up, it probably means that you forgot a solder joint! It is A LOT better to figure this out at this point, rather than when all the layers are soldered together. The center of the cube is virtually impossible to get to with a soldering iron. You now have 2/8 of your LED cube soldered together! Yay! For the next 6 layers, use the exact same process, but spend even more time aligning the corner LEDs before soldering them. Look at the cube from above, and make sure that all the corner LEDs are on a straight line when looking at them from above. Rinse and repeat! Step 26: Build the Cube: Create the Base We didn't have any fancy tools at our disposal to create a fancy stand or box for our LED cube. Instead, we modified the template to work as a base for

A bit for every LED in the LED cube. We will refer to this as the cube array or cube buffer from now on. The cube array is made of 8x8 bytes. Since each byte is 8 bits, this gives us a buffer that is 8 voxels wide, 8 woxels high and 8 voxels deep (1 byte deep). volatile unsigned char cube[8][8]; The interrupt routine reads from the cube array at given intervals and displays the information on the LED cube. The effect functions writes the desired LED statuses to this array. We did not use any synchronization or double buffering, since there is only one producer (either the effects currently running, or input from RS232) and one consumer (the interrupt-code that updates the cube). This means that some voxels could be from the next or previous "frame", but this is not a problem, since the frame rate is so high. When working with micro controllers, code size is critical. To save code size and programming work, and to make the code easier to read, we have tried to write re-usable code as often as possible. The LED cube code has a base of low level drawing functions that are used by the higher level effect functions. The draw functions can be found in draw.c. Draw functions include everything from setting or clearing a single voxel to drawing lines and wireframe boxes. Step 51: Software: IO Initialization The first thing the ATmega does after boot, is to call the ioinit() function. This function sets up IO ports, timers, interrupts and serial communications. All IO ports on the ATmega are bi-directional. They can be used either as an input or an output. We configure everything as outputs, except the IO pins where the two buttons are connected. The RX pin for